Everything You Ever Wanted to Know About Peppers!
The pepper, native to the tropics of Central and South
America, has probably been cultivated for thousands of years. Archaeologists
exploring prehistoric caves in Peru have found the remains of pepper seeds.
South America, Spain, England and the Caribbean all played
roles in the introduction of the pepper to North America. Columbus explored the
seas in search of a better trade route to the Indies. Dangerous, lengthy
overland journeys made spices an expensive commodity for Europeans. When
Columbus reached the Caribbean, he tasted a vegetable being grown by the
Indians. Its sharp taste reminded him of the familiar black pepper from the
East Indies and so he called this vegetable "pepper," as we do to
this day. However, Columbus was incorrect as the newly found vegetable was not
the pepper of "salt and pepper" (Piper nigrum) but an entirely
different genus, Capsicum.
He brought peppers back to Spain where they were considered
an appealing alternative to the more traditional spice. The instant popularity
of the vegetable is apparent from the comment of Peter Martyr, writing in 1493
that "...in the New World can be found plants hotter than pepper of
Caucasus." (He was referring to Piper nigrum.) From Spain the cultivation
of the pepper soon spread to the rest of the continent and England. History
does not tell us whether peppers reached North America via Europe or the
Caribbean.
The first of the English immigrants to the colonies brought
the seed of precious vegetables with them to plant in the New World. By the
middle of the 18th century, North Americans could import many varieties of
flowers and vegetables from England. John Randolph (1727-1784) of Williamsburg,
Virginia wrote a treatise on vegetables grown in the New World colonies. In the
essays, he referred to "Capsicum...it should be gathered before the pods
grow hard for pickles." Research conducted by the National Garden Bureau
found that records kept at Mount Vernon indicate George Washington grew a type
of "cayan" pepper.
CLASSIFICATION
There are over 20 species of pepper but only one is commonly known to North American gardeners, Capsicum annuum. This species contains the pepper varieties widely cultivated in North America. Although Hortus lists five groups within the C. annuum species, we will refer to peppers as one of two kinds--sweet or hot. Peppers are part of the Solanaceae or Nightshade family which contains over 2000 species of ornamental, medicinal and poisonous plants. This makes the pepper a close cousin to tomato, potato, tobacco, eggplant and petunia.
There are over 20 species of pepper but only one is commonly known to North American gardeners, Capsicum annuum. This species contains the pepper varieties widely cultivated in North America. Although Hortus lists five groups within the C. annuum species, we will refer to peppers as one of two kinds--sweet or hot. Peppers are part of the Solanaceae or Nightshade family which contains over 2000 species of ornamental, medicinal and poisonous plants. This makes the pepper a close cousin to tomato, potato, tobacco, eggplant and petunia.
SWEET PEPPERS
Bell--This pepper is mostly blocky in shape with three or four lobes on the bottom of the pepper. For years, gardeners could choose only one color of bell, a green that matured to red, Through modern breeding efforts e can now grow bell peppers that mature to an artist's palette of colors including red, yellow, orange, lavender, purple and chocolate. The bell peppers have a crisp, thick flesh and are suitable for eating fresh, or stuffing and baking.
Bell--This pepper is mostly blocky in shape with three or four lobes on the bottom of the pepper. For years, gardeners could choose only one color of bell, a green that matured to red, Through modern breeding efforts e can now grow bell peppers that mature to an artist's palette of colors including red, yellow, orange, lavender, purple and chocolate. The bell peppers have a crisp, thick flesh and are suitable for eating fresh, or stuffing and baking.
Paprika--When dried and ground, this thin-walled pepper becomes
the flavorful condiment paprika.
Pimiento--This heart-shaped pepper measures 3 1/2 by 4 1/2
inches. Fruits have very thick flesh. Strips of this fully mature, bright red,
mild tasting pepper are found in stuffed green olives.
Sweet Banana, Sweet Hungarian, Cubanelle--All of these are
also referred to as sweet frying or pickling peppers. The shape is long, narrow
tapering down to one, two or three lobes. These are thinner-walled than bells
and Cubanelle has the thinnest walls of the three. They are usually picked when
immature as a light yellow or green. Because they have less water content than
bells, they are excellent choices for frying. 'Sweet Banana' is a variety that
has withstood the test of time--it was a 1941 All- America Selections Winner.
'Gypsy,' a 1981 AAS Winner is early to mature--only 62 days and performs very
well in containers as well as in regular gardens.
Sweet Cherry--Here is a pepper that looks like its name in
that it is globe or cherry-shaped and about 1 1/2 inches across. This pepper is
harvested when mature green to deep red and is generally used in processing as
pickled.
HOT PEPPERS
Cayenne--This pepper is slim and tapered, ranging in length from 3 1/2 to 8 inches. Cayennes are often dried. The hybrid 'Super Cayenee' is a 1990 All American Selections Winner. It is very productive, early to mature and hot, hot, hot.
Cayenne--This pepper is slim and tapered, ranging in length from 3 1/2 to 8 inches. Cayennes are often dried. The hybrid 'Super Cayenee' is a 1990 All American Selections Winner. It is very productive, early to mature and hot, hot, hot.
Red Chili--The small cone-shape peppers of this type are 1
to 3 inches long and have medium thick flesh. They are often used dried and
ground in chili powder. 'Super Chili,' a 1988 AAS Winner is the first hybrid
chili. The compact plants were bred for increased yields.
Green Chili--These are the long (7 to 8 inch) green, two
celled mildly pungent Anaheim type peppers that are so flavorful in chile
rellenos. They turn red at maturity but are nearly always harvested, green,
roasted and peeled. They're the kind you'll find in the canned goods section of
supermarkets labeled "Green Chile Peppers."
Hungarian Yellow Wax (also called Hot Banana)--This pepper
is pungent but still one of the more mild "hots." It is 5 to 6 inches
long and picked when an immature greenish yellow color but matures to orangish
red. This type is good for pickling or canning.
Jalapeno--Jalapenos are the popular peppers used in many
Mexican entrees. They are 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 inches long and have a thick-walled
pungent flesh. They may be harvested when immatue green or mature red and are
good for pickling or canning. There are many varieties of jalapeno peppers with
varying degrees of pungency. It has been said that more than 200,000 pounds of
jalapeno seed is planted in Mexico annually!
Red Cherry--This hot pepper is only 1 1/2 inches across and
shaped like a cherry. It may be used fresh or pickled, primarily pickled.
Red Hot Peppers--There are other Capsicum annuum in the
Longum Group that add distinct flavor to their native regional cuisines. These
vary in plant and fruit size and shape. Smaller plants are attractive in patio
containers and hanging baskets. These scorchers such as Chili Tepine, Chile
Peguin, Tabasco, and Thai, mature red and zest-up foods. Many additional kinds
are available. Small hot yellow peppers like Cascabella and Santa Fe Grande are
used primarily for canning and pickling. There is the hot Serrano type that is
popular in the Southwest. There is Habanero, said to be 50 times hotter than
Jalapeno peppers.
PLANTING
Choose a sunny area of the garden as peppers need full sun to blossom and set fruit. Growth in full sun will result in a more productive plant. Select a spot protected from the wind as pepper plants have shallow, easily disturbed roots and brittle branches. A strong wind may break stems or completely uproot the plants.
Choose a sunny area of the garden as peppers need full sun to blossom and set fruit. Growth in full sun will result in a more productive plant. Select a spot protected from the wind as pepper plants have shallow, easily disturbed roots and brittle branches. A strong wind may break stems or completely uproot the plants.
The plant will perform best in well-drained soil with
adequate nutrition for plant growth. To insure adequate nutrition, use
fertilizers or work in well-rotted compost when preparing the garden soil in
the spring.
A pepper plant does not take up a lot of garden space, at
least when compared to vines like watermelon or pumpkin. Depending on the
variety, most pepper plants will measure 2 to 3 feet tall. A half dozen plants
should provide a family with a summer long crop of peppers. Gardeners with
limited space can even grow peppers in containers. A large patio container will
support one of the compact varieties such as 'Gypsy.'
SOWING SEED
Many gardeners start seeds indoors early, then transplant to their garden, but seeds can be planted directly into prepared garden soil in long season areas. Sow pepper seed outdoors once the soil temperature has warmed to 75 degrees F. Place seed 1/4 to 1/4 inch deep, cover with finely textured soil and water gently but thoroughly. Peppers need moist conditions to germinate and are hungry for water during the seedling stage and throughout the growing season.
Many gardeners start seeds indoors early, then transplant to their garden, but seeds can be planted directly into prepared garden soil in long season areas. Sow pepper seed outdoors once the soil temperature has warmed to 75 degrees F. Place seed 1/4 to 1/4 inch deep, cover with finely textured soil and water gently but thoroughly. Peppers need moist conditions to germinate and are hungry for water during the seedling stage and throughout the growing season.
HOW TO SELECT BEDDING PLANTS
No time to sow and grow from seed? Head out to the local nursery or garden center! You will find pepper plants that are just the right size for transplanting into the garden. Look for healthy plants that are green with strong foliage. Yellowed leaves, spindly stems or sparse foliage indicate the plant is not thriving and probably will not perform well in your garden.
No time to sow and grow from seed? Head out to the local nursery or garden center! You will find pepper plants that are just the right size for transplanting into the garden. Look for healthy plants that are green with strong foliage. Yellowed leaves, spindly stems or sparse foliage indicate the plant is not thriving and probably will not perform well in your garden.
TRANSPLANTING
The same procedure and care are recommended for planting bedding plants or peppers home grown from seed. Wait until the weather has warmed to a daytime temperature of 65 to 70 degrees F. and nighttime temperature above 55 degrees F. To help warm the soil, black plastic may be placed on the ground. Slits can be made in the plastic to accommodate the plants.
The same procedure and care are recommended for planting bedding plants or peppers home grown from seed. Wait until the weather has warmed to a daytime temperature of 65 to 70 degrees F. and nighttime temperature above 55 degrees F. To help warm the soil, black plastic may be placed on the ground. Slits can be made in the plastic to accommodate the plants.
Space plants about 2 feet apart. This distance will vary
slightly depending on the variety. Rows should be spaced at least 2 feet apart.
This will allow enough air circulation for the plants, permit easy cultivation
and harvest. A time release fertilizer can be added to the soil now according
to directions on the package. This fertilizer releases nutrients into the soil
for about 120 days.
GROWING ON
Peppers should grow rapidly given warm day and night temperatures. During this period of rapid growth be sure to provide adequate water and nutrients. Water the soil before plant foliage begins to droop or show signs of wilting. Take care to watch plants and look for any insect problems. Most locations in North America can grow any type of hot or bell pepper without any major problem.
Peppers should grow rapidly given warm day and night temperatures. During this period of rapid growth be sure to provide adequate water and nutrients. Water the soil before plant foliage begins to droop or show signs of wilting. Take care to watch plants and look for any insect problems. Most locations in North America can grow any type of hot or bell pepper without any major problem.
If you notice blossoms dropping of your pepper plant,
temperature may be the reason. The pepper is a warm season vegetable. It grows
and produces fruit when the soil and air temperatures are warm. The temperature
range for fruit set is quite narrow. When nighttime temperatures fall below 60
degrees F. or above 75 degrees F., blossoms are likely to drop and fruit will
not set. Daytime temperatures above 90 degrees F. will also inhibit fruit set,
but fruits will again begin to form when cooler daytime temperatures appear.
INSECT PESTS
Gardeners may find that pests cause occasional problems. Early detection can prevent damage; inspect plants frequently for telltale signs of insects; presence. Large insects can often be removed from the plant. Any damaged leaves or stems should be removed and destroyed. Insects often make their homes among garden debris, quickly moving on to healthy plants. Remove debris from pruning or weeding once the yard chore is finished. If increasing insect populations appear, contact a garden center or a county Extension agent for information about insecticides to reduce insect populations.
Gardeners may find that pests cause occasional problems. Early detection can prevent damage; inspect plants frequently for telltale signs of insects; presence. Large insects can often be removed from the plant. Any damaged leaves or stems should be removed and destroyed. Insects often make their homes among garden debris, quickly moving on to healthy plants. Remove debris from pruning or weeding once the yard chore is finished. If increasing insect populations appear, contact a garden center or a county Extension agent for information about insecticides to reduce insect populations.
Aphids are a major source of pepper problems. They are very
small insects (under 1/10 inch) found clustered on the undersides of leaves and
on new growth. As they feed they suck plant juices; leaves become yellowed and
distorted. They can spread all viruses, particularly Cucumber Mosaic Virus.
Thrips are another likely source of pepper problems. These
small flying insects congregate by the hundreds. Thrips are active insects,
wounding plants to suck sap like aphids. Thrips damage leaves which generally
curl upward into a "boat-shape." These insects can infect peppers
with Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus (TSWV).
DISEASES
While there are many viruses that can harm peppers, the following are the most prevalent in North America.
While there are many viruses that can harm peppers, the following are the most prevalent in North America.
Tobacco Mosaic Virus--Leaves become yellow and a mosaic
pattern can be seen on them. Eventually plants become stunted and fruit
discolored. Because TMV can be found in tobacco, refrain from smoking near the
plants. Do not handle plants after smoking tobacco. Many pepper varieties have
resistance or tolerance to Tobacco Mosaic Virus.
Wilt diseases--These are caused by the fungi Verticilium and
Fusarium present in the soil. The initial symptoms are wilting, upward curling
of leaves, and yellowing. Eventually the stems and roots of the plant are
affected. Verticilium wilt is more common in the western and northern parts of
North America. Fusarium wilt is more likely to occur under conditions of wet
soil and high temperatures.
Phytophthora root rot is caused by organisms found in heavy,
poorly drained soils. These diseases are best prevented by good water
management and crop rotation.
Cucumber Mosaic Virus--Plants are severely stunted with
light green, leathery foliage. Leaves and fruit may develop yellow spots and
rings. This virus is worldwide and can infect many food crops and weeds. Aphids
can transmit CMV from weeds to vegetables and back to weeds.
Viruses and wilts are not very common in gardens. If a
pepper plant appears to have the symptoms of a wilt or virus, the only action
to take is to remove and destroy the plant.
There is no cure for a wilt or virus. Plants can be burned
or put through a garbage disposal, if small, but do not allow the plant to be
put into a community or home compost pile where the virus or wilt could infect
other plants.
HARVEST
Peppers may be harvested and enjoyed when immature or mature. There is not a "best" time ti harvest, let personal taste preference be the guide. Remember that sweet peppers become sweeter as they mature and hot peppers come hotter.
Peppers may be harvested and enjoyed when immature or mature. There is not a "best" time ti harvest, let personal taste preference be the guide. Remember that sweet peppers become sweeter as they mature and hot peppers come hotter.
To harvest, do not pull or tear a pepper from a plant.
Peppers have shallow root systems and it doesn't take too forceful a pull to
dislodge the entire plant from the ground. Fruits of many varieties will easily
snap off at the tem. With some varieties you will need to use a sharp knife or
scissors to cut the fruit stem from the plant. Harvesting regularly will
encourage the plant to keep blossoming and setting fruit, especially early in
the growing season. If the temperature just drops below 32 degrees F. for a
short time, covering the pepper plants will protect them from damage. At the
end of the growing season such as September in Minneapolis, if there is a
threat of killing frost, pick all fruit regardless of the size. This is the
last harvest for the plants.
COOKING WITH HOT PEPPERS
A cautionary note on preparing HOT peppers for storage or cooking. The "heat" in hot peppers is an oil called capsaicin that is contained in the placenta (membranes that join the seed to the fruit). This oil will easily get on hands and fingers during the cutting and cleaning process.
A cautionary note on preparing HOT peppers for storage or cooking. The "heat" in hot peppers is an oil called capsaicin that is contained in the placenta (membranes that join the seed to the fruit). This oil will easily get on hands and fingers during the cutting and cleaning process.
If you then rub your eyes, nose or mouth, the oils will be
transferred to these areas with a distinctly painful burning. Wear plastic
gloves while cutting the hot peppers to prevent any of the oil from covering
your hands. Wash hands after preparing is finished. Do not rub your eyes!
Should you forget to use caution and end up with burning
hands, gel from the leaf stem of an aloe vera plant offers immediate relief
when applied to hands or other burning areas. Use the gel carefully. A 10 percent
solution of chlorox will also neutralize the capsaicin.
The temperature of a 'hot' pepper can be controlled by using
or excluding the seeds and placenta (the center) of the pepper when cooking. If
you wish a dish to be 'hot' include the hot pepper parts. If you want less
heat, use the flesh only and dispose of the placenta and seeds.
STORAGE
Peppers may be stored fresh, frozen, dried or pickled. Peppers will continue to ripen after being picked. Store peppers at room temperature if you wish them to ripen. The ripening process will be slowed if the peppers are stored under cool conditions. If whole fresh peppers are placed in plastic wrap and stored in the refrigerator, they should keep for at least a week.
Peppers may be stored fresh, frozen, dried or pickled. Peppers will continue to ripen after being picked. Store peppers at room temperature if you wish them to ripen. The ripening process will be slowed if the peppers are stored under cool conditions. If whole fresh peppers are placed in plastic wrap and stored in the refrigerator, they should keep for at least a week.
Peppers are among the easiest of vegetables to freeze. Most
peppers such as sweet bell or jalapeno need not be cooked or blanched prior to
freezing. Simply wash, slice open and remove seeds. They may be cut into
strips, chopped or diced and placed in a freezer container. Once thawed the
peppers will be soft but well-suited for use in soups, stews or cooked
vegetable dishes.
Mature peppers may also be dried for long term storage. Make
a Mexican ristra, a long string of dried chili peppers that can be hung on the
wall for easy accessibility as well as a colorful decoration. Use fresh chili
peppers leaving the stems on. Make a small slit on each side of the pepper just
below the stem. Insert a needle and thread through these slits and string the
peppers together. Hang in a warm dry place. Use them in appropriate recipes or
as a decoration. To dry "hot" peppers such as jalapeno, use waxed
dental floss because the capsaicin oil dissolves thread.
NUTRITION
Peppers are the right food for people seeking a healthy, nutritious diet. Low in calories, high in Vitamins A and C, peppers are also high in a very important mineral--potassium. One cup of raw sweet green peppers contains 22 calories. For comparison a cup of cucumber is 16, cottage cheese is 223 and whole orange is about 41 calories.
Peppers are the right food for people seeking a healthy, nutritious diet. Low in calories, high in Vitamins A and C, peppers are also high in a very important mineral--potassium. One cup of raw sweet green peppers contains 22 calories. For comparison a cup of cucumber is 16, cottage cheese is 223 and whole orange is about 41 calories.
A red sweet or hot pepper contains about ten times more
vitamin A and double the amount of Vitamin C than an immature green pepper. A
100 gram serving of red hot peppers eaten raw contains 369 milligrams of
Vitamin C. The same serving size of sweet raw green pepper contains 128
milligrams, about one third less.
Whether green or red a pepper contains more Vitamin C than a
whole orange which contains only about 50 milligrams. For potassium rich foods,
an average banana contains 370 milligrams and a cup of green sweet pepper has
213 mg raw and 149 mg if boiled before being eaten.
Source: Texas
A&M